Showing posts with label Work Bench. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Work Bench. Show all posts

Monday, June 7, 2010

Spray painting review Fat Caps

 The ones on the left are fat caps the ones on the right a skinny caps

In my model Prep tips part two I talk about fat caps. I bought some sampler pack to try and well I did some quick testing of which cap will work with what brand of paint I use . I had some issues with different caps an brands mostly Rust-oleum but man when you get the right cap with the right brand and it is a whole new ball game laying down primer.

I really like the orange dot left picture top left corner  that is a nice spray pattern  with Krylon and Color place.I am still working with the skinny's if they work on army painters brand of spray primer I will use them to do a lot of base coating

Conclusion 
all in all the caps make a difference with the right combination it will lay down the primer really nice.
I haven't had any luck with these caps and Rust-oleum

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Model Preparation Tips

I was reading over some blogs the other night and did not see a lot of stuff out there covering the basics of modeling .
This might be some real basic information to most of you.
My hope is that every one might at least learn some thing.
Here are some techniques that I have pick up form all different places and just doing it.

Mold Lines

Cleaning up mold lines I use the back of my hobby knife blade #11 blade there are two designs of blades (Picture A) I like to use the straight back (needle point) and a drop point  I really like the blade with the drop point at the back of the tip it is a shorter  edge to scrape with. Tighter spaces I go with the needle point blade it is nice if you have a fit in small tight places.
Picture A
DSCF8733
Pictures B
DSCF8729-1
DSCF8725-1
Mold Lines
The way I remove the lines is to scrape them at a slight angle to the mold line  I do not fallow the line I am working on with the blade but rather pull it toward my self at the angle letting the contour of the model guide my direction. (picture B) If it is cylindrical like a leg I work the blade over the crest of the cylinder. I have found that fallowing the the line in a straight down will sometimes create a flat line taking down the curve.  This is not always possible to do on. For longer straight flat lines you can fallow the line. I will also do this when filing down a mold line.
Seam Scraping.
Another thing I do is what I call seam scraping if I am butting two pieces together that you do not want the seam as visible. I will scrape the seam at a angle pulling crossed the seam. Then pull two pieces apart then glue them and put them back  together and run the blade over it again one its set . It make a tighter fit and helps to hide the joint if it is not supposed to be seen.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Back to the bloging

I have been slowly plugging away at my Space Marines all the ones I have primed are now base coated I am starting on my shading and highlighting this weekend which makes me happy I can Put more time in to my army.

I have been working on a banner for a friend it is for his space wolfs.
I am currently working on that in gimp I love gimp but not as much as photo shop and soon maybe not that soon I will have my own mac to do this kinda of work on.

I also have been working on a post about model preparation cleaning mold line to sanding and priming at least my techniques from them. I should be done with it soon just taking my time to make it right...